Back to Panama ... on the way to Colombia

I'd been so keen to leave Panama for Costa Rica that I'd ditched my original plan of visiting the mountain town of Boquette, located on the edge of the National park right on the border between the two countries. As I had to travel back to Panama city to catch my next flight, I thought I'd catch a bus across the border and visit Boquette on the way. Located on the lower slopes of the Arenal volcano, the town is renowned for hiking and outdoor activities. When I arrived, the first thing I spotted was a flower festival in the centre of town.

I booked myself in to one of the many cheap hostels in the centre of town, it was OK for the money, although I was little concerned to see Heath Robinson had wired-up the electric shower!

Next day I went on a nice hike up to the 'lost waterfalls'. Nice scenery on the hike up the mountain; the friendly guy at the entrance to the waterfall made me take a photo of his map so I didn't get lost!

Not a complicated map

 I had a nice day, met a young Dutch couple at the waterfall so we all walked back to town together. The guy at the entrance to the waterfall did offer us cheap accomodation in a lovely little wood cabin perched on the hill, but it was a few hours walk back to town so we declined.

 The next day I set out to hike the volcano; I caught a mini-bus up the hill to the park entrance and set off - man, it was difficult! Maybe the elevation, maybe my lack of exercise, but after a couple of hours walking I'd hardly got anywhere, then coming towards me is a group of youngsters on their way back down. " How long to get to the top?" I asked, "About 6 hours up, and 4 to get back down" came the reply. After a few moments pondering, I decided not to be silly, so turned round and decided instead to walk back down to the town!

 I'm glad I did as the scenery going back down was so pretty. Then as I turned a bend I noticed some guys spreading something on the ground - coffee beans. This area is famous for it's 'Artisan' coffee - this was a small processing plant. I wandered in through the open gate and had a little look around, next thing a young guy asked me if I wanted a look round? He then showed me all this lovely old machinery and explained the whole process.

 As I carried on down the hill I was amazed at the flowers just growing wild by the side of the road - never seen anything like it!

 So, pleasantly surprised by the lovely little town and friendly people, I started to get a slightly better feeling about Panama (after slagging it off in my previous post). I actually hung around another couple of days just chilling out, hiking along the river and eating vegan ice cream from a shop run by a Venezuelan couple. Eventually though, it was time to move on. I'd been here two months and wanted to see somewhere else, so I got the bus back to Panama City and from there a flight to Cartagena in Colombia.

Catching up - Costa Rica

I caught a flight to San Jose in Costa Rica, hired a (very small) 4wd vehicle and set off for La Fortuna, which is a small town just below a (live) volcano. The plan was to hike the volcano, visit the local thermal springs and waterfalls and generally look for wildlife. I managed to find a little cabin for rent just outside the town, set in tropical gardens with a nice swimming pool and breakfast included - ridiculously cheap and I was the only guest!

Suzuki Jimney

Where is everyone?

It wasn't me - honest

 First stop at the volcano, only too be told by the park ranger that I couldn't hike up as they'd had a couple of small eruptions, so I just hiked through the surrounding forest. Saw plenty of wildlife - unfortunately my camera had died so I only had my phone to take photos with - apologies for the quality.

Volcano at La Fortuna - NOT dormant

Big Tree

Family group

 After five days hiking the area I decided I needed a beach, so drove down to the Pacific coast, which was a bit of a disappointment. First stop was Tamarindo, where I'd booked a couple of nights stay in a little hotel; evidently it was a famous surfing town, so full of young Americans (dude!) being fleeced by the locals, dirt streets with grey water running down the middle, 5 star hotels next to tin shacks. Not my scene, although I met a Venezuelan Vegan chef that delivered food by push-bike around the town, so at least I had some decent food.

Yep, deserted beach

 I carried on south along the coast towards the Marine park, much more rural with no tourists. Found a lovely little cabin up in the hills rented out by a French family - they even let me use their swimming pool. Oh and gave me a massive plate of fruit each day for breakfast!

So thats how you're supposed to do it!

Funny-looking squirrel

Nice Fruit!!

 I took a boat trip out one day, supposedly there were humpback whales out in the park, but all we saw were dolphins. Did some snorkeling but not many fish. Bit of a disappointment really.

Marine National park

Spotted dolphin

 Another day I made a trip to the most popular national park in the country; sure enough there was plenty of wildlife to be spotted, but it all seemed a bit - Disneyland. The guides all knew where each animal was to be seen, we basically queued-up to take our photos.

Capuchin monkeys

There's a Sloth and baby in there somewhere

Howler monkey

Strangely enough, after three weeks I was getting bored. I guess I must be spoilt, but the heat (constant 30 degC) and lack of decent food was getting to me, plus it seemed every person I met had their hand out asking for money. I'd actually driven the whole length of the country, and back again. My plan was to carry on up into Nicaragua, but for some reason there were problems at the border crossing, and no-one was getting across from Costa Rica. I never did find out what the problem was, by now I just wanted to get away. After a bit of head-scratching I decided to head to Colombia instead; I remembered Juan, my Arhuaco companion from Panama city, telling me all about Cuidad Perdida (the lost city) sitting up in the mountains behind Cartagena. So, flight booked to Cartagena via Panama - ready for the next leg of the journey.

Everyone's watching!

A postcard from Panama

I flew to Miami from London, had a one week stopover in the Florida Keys (nothing adventurous) then flew down to Panama city. I've been travelling around a bit here; seen some nice places. 

Casco Viejo (old town)

Typical building

View across to (new) Panama city from Casco Viejo

Normal traffic conditions - gridlock!

 After a few days in Panama city I caught a ferry down to Isla Contadora in the Pacific Pearl Islands

Approaching Isla Contadora

A deserted beach

Another deserted beach

A fish

Yet another deserted beach

 There wasn't many people there, probably because of the Xmas holidays. The island has 6 lovely beaches, which I had pretty much to myself. Did some snorkeling and found plenty of fish and a few corals.

I told these guys I was thirsty, so one climbed a coconut tree for me!

 I stayed a couple of days, but with no restaurants open I lived on tins of black beans & packets of plantain chips bought from the one little shop on the island; stayed in a cheap b&b where I was the only client.

Panama city from the Metropolitan park

 Got back to the city, did some hiking - the city is surrounded by parks - but it was extremely hot & humid!!

A critter in the park

 After a couple of more days in the city I took a trip up to the Carribean coast and the San Blas islands. These are a chain of islands in an independent nation ruled by the Guna Yala indians, they restrict access to the islands, but allow tourists to visit & stay in very basic accomodations.

After 2 weeks here in Panama at sea level I was getting a tan, but man it was hot! So I decided to go up into the hills and visit the small town of El Valle and spend the New Year there. It is set in the crater of a huge extinct volcano, so lots of waterfalls and thermal springs to visit, plus hiking around the hills. Much nicer temperature, around 25 degC as opposed to 34degC down in the city.

The hill is called La India Dormida (sleeping Indian)

Not quite ripe yet!

Endangered yellow frog of Panama 

Climbed to top of India Dormida - knackered!!

Mud pack in the hot springs

 I spent 5 days up in the hills, stayed in a quiet and basic hotel set in lovely gardens. Hiked every day, visited the waterfalls and hot springs, had a nice rest from the city. Also met some nice people to while away the time with.

Got back to the city to spend the last couple of days getting ready to move on to Costa Rica. I had to visit the Panama canal, spent some time in the museum there which was really interesting, watched a few boats transiting through, then back to my hotel to start booking flights.

Ship exiting the canal to the Pacific

Ships coming into the canal from the Atlantic

I've had a nice enough time here, met a few nice people, but I must say that in general the Panamanians are miserable as hell!! Mind you, they have this special toilet paper that is so thin that even when you fold it 12 times your fingers go through it (ugh) so maybe that's the reason why. :)

I opened the Christmas crackers early this year .....

A man walks into a chemist's and says "Can I have a bar of soap, please?"
The chemist asks "do you want it scented?"
The man says " No, I'll take it with me, thanks"

The police arrested two kids down our street yesterday.
One was drinking battery acid, the other was eating fireworks.
They charged one, and let the other off.

;)